2020/2021 Winter Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Maître d'Art
" Il Medico della Peste"
"Il Medico della Peste" prelude film
Under an original idea by Frank Sorbier
Directed by Amaury Voslion
Report and genesis
The Maison Franck Sorbier particularly thanks
Mr OLIVIER FARON
Mrs MARIE-LAURE ESTIGNARD
Mr JEAN-PIERRE OSTERTAG
Mr GUY SOYEZ
and the musée des Arts et Métiers - Conservatoire des arts et métier (Cnam) team
All the thanks from the Maison Franck Sorbier and Mr Sorbier can be found in the program (Download PDF)
Il Medico della Peste
This collection features one of the major characters of the Comedia dell Arte : Il Medico.
In fact, at the time of the black plague, the city of Venice paid doctors to treat the rich and the poor. If this mask with the long beak can make think of a bird, it is none other than a filter garnished with fragrant herbs, spices, lemon, mint leaves, camphor, laudanum, myrrh and rose petals. A filter capable of protecting from the airborne epidemic. A wooden cane was used to examine the patients.
Science has its own aesthetic, mystery.
The trailer will be broadcast on Wednesday July 8 at 11 am and the short film will be released in September, they were directed by Amaury Voslion, and were shot at the musée des Arts et Métiers - Conservatoire des arts et métier (Cnam).
A privilege to benefit from this cultural and educational framework with multiple inventions and architecture that has seen the centuries go by. And as Victor Hugo wrote, «architecture is a thought written in stone». His house in Guernsey did not leave us indifferent.
The Statue of Liberty appears tied up, wrapped, gagged, a whole Symbol .... as for the plague aka COVID 19, it is embodied by Ophélia Kolb and Il Medico, by Alexandre Risso, aka the medical profession, to whom we can only pay tribute.
A current and universal theme.
Each staging of the film interpreted by Jeade Pasquier, La Comedia, each silhouette will be associated with surprising and ingenious innovations.
The musée des Arts et Métiers - Conservatoire des arts et métier (Cnam) is rich in the noble sense of the term.
We wanted to transpose this story into a Victorian era to bring it to the present day. This new season is more than ever part of «the Master of Art spirit».
But let’s talk a bit about fashion. As in the second half of the 70s, we were teenagers, fashion was mixed, creation but also renovation.
Rather than recovery, I prefer the word resurrection.
Set the pace : Paisley and old lace.
What is a Paisley ? It is a cashmere or soft wool pashmina shawl or a clever combination of these materials in which silk is used, woven in jacquard with patterns strongly influenced by Persian elements. These shawls were made in Kashmir at the start of the 15th century. Since 1586, European women have worn them, draped over their shoulders. But it was during the Victorian and Edwardian eras that their success was at its peak. You will be able to discover it in September under various aspects, cut, recomposed, re-embroidered, applied, veiled ... The colors are warm: red, ginger, brown, cauldron, orange but also offset like pale pink, almond green or wormwood, blue porcelain and Naples yellow. On some pieces, the patterns are underlined, by touch, in gold and copper.
Black punctuates all the silhouettes. We discover it in many facets. Laces are the majority but also crumpled velvet, taffeta and embroidered tulle decorated with small Mexican exvotos, in silver (Ah Maria Felix, when you hold us !). We called it «the spells of the black.»
A pantomime of old pearl embroidery in silk thread, trimmings, fabric flowers, old jet, 19th century silk lace, Lyon lace embroidered and encrusted piece by piece… Epochs and geographies are jostling, clothes asserting their identity without complex. It’s playful, warlike, elegant, funny, charming, nostalgic ... A happy din. The Comedia della Moda ?
La Commedia della Moda !
"Il Medico della Peste" prelude gallery
Pictures extracted from the 2020/2021 Winter Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Maître d'Art "Il Medico della Peste" prelude film