"Il Medico della Peste" revelation

2020-2021 Sorbier Haute Couture

September 2020

2020 Summer Sorbier Haute Couture collection "Viva la Doña"

Enrique Alvarez Felix will be the only child of La Doña. He himself will become an actor and will continue to collect photos and memories of his mother.


Augustin Lara, "the man with the golden voice", a great Latin American song myth, is her second husband. In 1947 he composed “Maria Bonita” in his honor, which became another of his nicknames.

 

Jorge Negrete, glory of the song and the Mexican cinema, becomes her third husband, in 1952. They had met ten years previously, on the turning “The Rock of lost souls”, not without difficulty! Because, in the meantime, Maria Felix simply became an actress. Jorge Negrete, who is said to be as ugly as he is attractive, has made their meeting room line with rose petals.

She then marries Alex Berger, a French financier who will offer her racehorses, her jewelry.

 

She also lived a passionate love with Suzanne Baulé, known as Frede, who then directed “Le Carrolls”, a cabaret in rue de Ponthieu. Their idyll will end in trial.

She will spend the end of her life in the company of the painter Antoine Tzapoff, between Paris and Mexico.

 

She will be the star of 47 films, she tours in Mexico, Argentina but also in France and Italy. Its European partners will be: Jean Gabin in “French Cancan” by Jean Renoir, Yves Montand in “The heroes are tired”, Gérard Philippe in “The fever goes up to El Pao” by Buñuel, Vittorio Gassman in “La courrone noire” by Luis Saslavsky, on a story by Jean Cocteau.

 

The Mexican films of which she is the star are entitled: “La Devora dora”, “La Mujer de todos”, “La Mujer sin alma”, “Doña diabla”, “La Bandida”, “La Belle Otero”, “La Pasión desnuda”.

 

In her films, she has always represented strong, proud, haughty women (Ha! That left eyebrow!).
In an interview, she said: “People admired my beauty and my intelligence, I was only a woman with a human heart. A warrior."

Hence another of his nicknames: La Caballera.
With it, reality and fiction merge. It embodies passion, eroticism, a certain magnetism. To complete the myth, La Doña died in her house in Polanco, Mexico City, in full sunshine on her birthday. She was 88 years old.

 

With this story, we must hope for the return of these women we see, on whom we turn around, who hypnotize you.


With it, it is also the return of the famous expression "who can do more, can do less". We saw her wear folk clothes but also Couture, always hated and covered with jewelry. She created her own fashion with total freedom and disarming naturalness. Isn't that elegance?

 

I wish she had taken some of our creations with her own imagination.


Isn't that Haute Couture?

Les Sorbier

Maria de Los Angeles Felix Güereña

 

Better known as Maria Felix, La Doña is one of the central figures in the golden age of Mexican cinema.

 

Maria Felix was born in Alamos, in the state of Sonora, in northern Mexico, to a Yaqui Indian and a descendant of Spanish. His father owns a modest ranch, hence his love for horses. As a little girl, she prefers to climb trees and compete with boys, rather than learning embroidery and prayers.

 

At the age of 16, she was elected Queen of Beauty in her province and escaped parental control by marrying Enrique Alvarez, who passed by there.
She will leave him, not without having given him the greatest gift in the world.

© A. Voslion

2019-2020 Winter Sorbier Haute Couture collection "Figue Libre"

20 years already.

 

In July 1999, the first Haute Couture presentation as a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne took place in the courtyard of the Palais Galliera.

Since then, there have been collections, classic, committed, traveling, musical, naturalist, dreamlike, spiritual, literary, historical, iconoclastic ... always cultural.

Shivering and learning have always been necessary, even vital. The decor, the staging and the music have been the essence of the House for all these years.

For several seasons, dance, which has always fascinated me, has been invited to complete the living picture.

I found, with the classical dancers, the family spirit that I had known, at my beginnings, with the models of the 90s. This feeling which sticks to the skin of Haute Couture and which we call l house spirit.

 

If I took the decision at the time to embark on Haute Couture, it was also because I had perfected the compression technique which allowed me to go through all the periods of this cycle and which earned me the title of Master of Art in addition to the techniques of macramé, the lirette and the inlay of lace by hand.

There have been bodies wrapped in these seamless techniques.


Where did the dresses start ? Where did they end ? Even I don't remember.

I wanted to be welcomed into this noble institution to bring my stone, Haute Couture must remain a construction mystery. I think we also have to support its extraordinary dimension.

Finally, “fast-fashion” has not now common bounds with a “Lady”. It is also a matter of conviction.
Will the supremacy of the “trust” and their “tsunami” policy be the views of tomorrow?

Hope it won't be. “Too Much of too much, kill the overabundance !”
The headlong rush is, more than ever, in tune with the times.

 

Haute Couture does not count its hours, it is the school of patience.

If I told you a little bit about this fortieth collection.

There were many tracks but what I wanted, above all, was to rediscover the spontaneity of the beginnings and combine it with all these years of research.
A blank page on which I could express the essentials.

This season, I did not do any preparatory drawing, I sketched the volumes and folds directly on the mannequin and then scribbled them with dimensions of the fabric panels.

After discussion between four eyes, we opted for the title "Free Figure (Figure Libre)".

A new adventure began.

 

A quest for a monastic sketch made of squares and rectangles fringed wire by wire.
The double black silk georgette crepe is folded, pinched and assembled by hand with small Chinese knots or ball dots.

There is something divine in this extreme simplification.

A new vision of the black dress that leaves room for movement and grace. These contemporary vestal dresses presented here in black will be offered to customers in a wide range of colors.

As for compression, it becomes an accessory and comes in removable mobiles (piece of skirt, plastron, wrap-around collar, dog-corset collar, psychedelic collar, swirl belt, armband, collar, hat). It consists of multicolored tulles stitched with contrasting threads.

The compression bag is honored and can live its own life as can be seen in the double crepe georgette dresses in black silk.

 

With this collection, changes of mood and place are allowed. In a few minutes, clients can go from “gallery opening” to breakfast or to the red carpet.

It’s also summer in winter. Nothing is frozen, everything is free.

 

Frank Sorbier

Wakeup call

25 orangutans continue to die every day due to deforestation in favor of palm oil.
You absolutely must boycott all food and other products containing this murderous oil.

I will not go back on my position on fur. It hasn't changed ...

As for endangered species, they are legion ...

 2019 Summer Sorbier Haute Couture collection "Obi"

A whole poem.

Their names are: Maru obi, Fukuro obi, Nagoya obi, Hanhaba obi, Odoro obi or even Tenga obi.

But what is it, then ?

A fabric belt, quite simply, used to close kimonos most often. It’s a simple, narrow rectangle that is about thirty centimeters by three to four meters long.

There has been an evolution in the history of obi. At the start, it was a simple rope, which, over time, turned into sumptuous adornment.

I had already used one for the collection "Les Amants Célestes", right here at the Guimet Museum for the summer of 2016. This old obi had become a dress bustier. I must say that I was hungry and since then I had found two others and I brought them out regularly from the cupboards.

For summer 2019, it's everywhere. You will see it in a skirt, bustier, dress, jacket, sometimes veiled with organza, sometimes visible or cut again.

They are all unique, old, their designs are on various themes, the weavings are brocade, paperback, damask ... endangered techniques.

The organza is either black or light honey.
Dark to tell the mystery of this archipelago long closed to the rest of the world, clear honey to speak about a rising sun in the maritime mist.

This collection is also a meeting of the Far East and the West, in the 19th century.

This new season evokes Japanese woodcut prints, the famous prints of Ukiyo-e, a term meaning "image of the floating world".

These prints were born during an era of peace and prosperity under the authority of the Tokugawa shogunate and with the emergence of an urban bourgeoisie, they set out to describe the pleasures of everyday life.

All passages bear the name of a master printmaker.

The summer of 2019 will be theatrical like a pantomime of twists and turns.

A fusion of Far Eastern heritage culture and Western fashion plagued by decay. This is evidenced by the evocation of samurai, sumo on the one hand and "Lolitas kawaï d'Harajuku" on the other.

A world where everyone has their place.

Frank Sorbier

Post Scriptum : in our country, the Council of State treats flowers, fruits and vegetables better than animals.
See the entanglements law that is destroying birds, squirrels and surely many other species.

We must react, the struggle continues.

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